LADAKH!!!

For a jump-at-every-opportunity-to-go-tripping me, a chance to accompany my cousins on their Ladakh trip seemed too ecstatic to miss. A nature lover if you are, there are, but a few places that offer the beauty that this Paradise on Earth does. It came as a blessing in disguise for me to visit and learn about Ladakh, the way I did.

Brimming with excitement, I started off alone from Bangalore and was to catch up with my family at Delhi. We spent about a day in Jammu, before proceeding to Leh, which happens to be the second largest district in India and lies at the heart of the Ladakh region. It’s just a 40 minute flight from Jammu and a very exciting one that. As the plane passes the snow capped peaks of the mighty Himalayas, you can do little, but marvel at the sights beneath you. Flying into 2`C Leh from a 35`C at Jammu couldn’t have felt better, as thin, chilly winds blew across our faces when we first landed in Leh.

Leh lies at about 11,500 feet above sea level and oxygen levels are considerably low here. So we
made sure we had one day off to get acclimatized to the temperatures. The first thing you notice about the place, apart from the scenic beauty of course, is how cheerful the local people are. Courtesy and kindness are virtues that are deeply embedded in every Ladakhi. We witnessed that on Day 1 itself, when Sampil, our driver who picked us at the airport, was all smiles while wishing us a happy stay. Checked into our guest house and were overjoyed to view the majestic Himalayas from our windows.  Sitting there in the balcony when it was cold, inspite of a sunny weather, and nothing, but the mountains for company, I couldn’t have asked for more from life. Makes you realize time and again that you're nothing but a tiny speck of the oh-so-humongous cosmos. We had the privilege of meeting a 67 year old backpacker, who was on a mission to study religion and politics and has been on the run for the past 27 months. With interesting stories on various topics ranging from the origin of Christianity, to reincarnation and rebirth, stories of the soul, he had a lot to offer. The days were really long, lasting from about 5 am to 8 pm at night. So even at 7 in the evening, we could see the sun kissing the snow covered peaks.

Our second day at Leh saw us visiting the meeting point of the Zanskar and the Indus rivers.
While the Indus appeared to be a pale green, Zanskar seemingly had had fresh rainfall and was brown in color. Hence their meeting point surrounded by mountains on one side, made for a fascinating sight. Rafting in the chilled waters of the Zanskar was a great experience and luck was on our side as we had interesting people for company; a super cute rafting guide, who worked for an adventure tourism company in Rishikesh, and a forest officer who narrated stories from his postings all over India. Then we headed to Alchi monastery, which was built in 1000AD, and showcased extensive wall paintings of the Buddha.On our way back to Leh, we witnessed a phenomenon that defies gravity, Magnetic hill. For a certain distance here, vehicles move by themselves inspite of being on neutral gear. Next on the list was the Hall of Fame museum, depicting the history, flora and fauna of Ladakh region and paid tributes to the war heroes of the region. 



Our next day heralded the beginning of a beautiful journey, that would take us through numerous mountain peaks, valleys, deep gorges and crystal clear streams created by the melting snow on the peaks. We were headed towards Nubra valley, and the only connecting road from Leh to Nubra was through the highest motorable pass in the world, Khardung La pass. Rocky mountains suddenly paved way for snow on either sides of the road and we watched with amazement as far off hills were fast being covered up in a white blanket. Upon reaching Khardung La, the first thing that hit us was that it was snowing and the harsh winds made it even more effective. To stand at a gorgeous height of 18,000 feet above sea level, and witness my first ever snowfall, will be etched in my memory for a long time. Moving on, we passed through numerous mountains, each one of them different, sporting different colors and every bit of the landscape made me go “Wow! Nothing ever beats the beauty of mother nature”. We reached Nubra valley at around evening  and what a pleasant place it was. Picture a little village surrounded by snow capped mountains on one side, naked rocky peaks on the other ,a river flowing through it and has a white sand desert within. An astoundingly beautiful place.  Being amidst incredibly cheerful, kind and generous people, forever-smiling children of Hunder, the village where we stayed, made me wonder why would anyone ever want to leave that paradise.  Their way of wishing “Julley” [Namaste] rubbed off on us and we were greeted with smiling responses of “Julley” from every person we came across on the streets. A day well spent, we retired to our guest house where our hosts were  yet another happy couple, who treated us like family. Ladakhis and happiness are the best of friends I believe!!

Day 5 of our trip was simply an unforgettable day, simply for the impact it left behind. Siachen base camp! I consider myself extremely lucky to have visited this place since it is accessible only for the Army fraternity, and we were allowed to go, thanks to my uncle. It is an extremely humbling and overwhelming experience when you visit soldiers who guard the Nation day and night, under very difficult climatic conditions, where temperatures go up to -70 during winter and the region has a snow blanket throughout the year. The scenic beauty that surrounded us was mesmerizing indeed, but we were all deeply affected by what met our eyes at the base camp. It highlighted things that we take for granted simply because we have selfless soldiers protecting us throughout.. It almost made me feel guilty of living a comfortable life in a safe haven. Hats off to them, in all sincerity!! The least we could do was say a simple Thank you and salute them, before we continued our sojourn. 

Our next stopover was the Diskit monastery, with the huge Buddha statue before we left to Pangong lake. The drive from Nubra valley to Pangong lake was an awesome one passing through deserted roads through mountains, which sometimes felt like we were driving into a cave, at times there was no road and at times we drove through streams .There were no vehicles for a long time and it was simply us amidst the mountains and streams. 

Imagine a vast expanse of crystal clear water, surrounded by snow covered peaks on all sides, showing certain amount of greenery in between and the sky casting its hues on the


water. That’s Pangong Tso for you! I caught myself wondering what must have been going through God’s mind when he decided to created this masterpiece at a height of 14,000 feet above sea level. The lake reflects just about anything, so you see shades of turquoise blue, light blue, deep purple, pale green and not to forget, the peaks surrounding it. Beauty at its pristine best!! Add the chilly mountain winds blowing downwards and even 2° begins to feel like sub zero level temperature at Pangong. We were up early next morning, to catch the rising sun right opposite our tent. What started as a distinguished hue of crimson, slowly paved way to a slight yellow, until it became white, and then the glistening snow capped peaks were visible in all their glory, until we finally saw him rise above the mountains. Oh what relief that brought , the first rays of the sun upon us, after a relatively chilly night.


Moving on from Pangong Tso, we headed to the Hemis monastery where the annual Hemis festival was going on. A huge gathering had assembled to witness the vibrant, traditional mask dances depicting the various stories from the Buddhist philosophy. We then moved on, to spend our last day at Leh, having learnt a little about Ladakhi culture and the Buddhist way of life. I cannot really say if I’m more enchanted by the scenic beauty that Ladakh offers or by the kindness and happiness of its people, but it definitely does stand out as a must visit place during one’s lifetime. As for me, it’s a place I would want to go over and over again, simply for the love of it. 

Comments

Vishnu said…
Awesome blog Sahana.
Hope you had a great time out there!
Sneha Prasad said…
😍😍😍😍so damn wanna go back
Ranjita said…
I so wanna go to this place now!It seems like such an enchanting place :)
kanchan Monga said…
Beautifully expressed. You took me back to our enchanting Ladakh Trip. Keep it up !!!

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